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Createx Colors 101

Createx Colors 101

A Practical Guide to Every Paint Line from Createx and When to Use Them

If you’ve ever scrolled through hundreds of Createx listings on our website, wondering where to start—opaque, transparent, Wicked, Illustration, candy2o…—this is your map. Below is a clear, project-first guide to Createx’s major paint lines, specialty effects, and the key additives/reducers that make them sing. Everything that Createx makes is water-based acrylic (or acrylic-urethane in some lines), highly versatile, and not for use on skin or silicone. For everything else, Createx is quite capable!

Check our video on YouTube related to this topic:

Match the Paint to the Job

Here are some basics on how to choose a paint line depending on what you are planning to achieve:

  • Fine art/detail work, low PSI, tiny nozzles: Illustration Colors or Wicked Colors

  • T-shirts, canvas, textiles: Createx Airbrush Colors

  • Crafts, props, tees, models, signage: Createx Wicked Colors, candy2o

  • Automotive, hard-use projects, robust adhesion & finishes: Wicked Colors (+ Autoborne Sealer undercoats)

  • Glass-deep transparent color over metallics: Candy (candy2O workflow with 4050 or 4030 binder)

  • Sparkle, flip, chrome, UV/glow effects: Wicked Special FX (Flares, Cosmic Sparkle, Chromes, UV/Glow)

The Core Lines

1) Createx Airbrush Colors (the t-shirt workhorse)

Did you know that "tex" in Createx stands for textiles? That's right, the brand started with specialized paints for textiles, and no wonder that they became the #1 paint for airbrushing on t-shirts. If you see a custom t-shirt stand at a fair or in a mall, there is a high chance that they will be using Airbrush Colors from Createx.  They are also great for crafts, props (especially when dealing with fabrics), canvas shoes, and tees (with the right base & heat set). Spray best through 0.5 mm nozzles at moderate PSI. It can be reduced for a 0.3mm nozzle, but it can experience some clogging; that's why we recommend Wicked line for smaller nozzle sizes. 

  • Opaques – Fast coverage, body color, basecoats.

  • Transparents – Build tone gradually; show what’s beneath.

  • Pearlized & Iridescents – Fine shimmer without heavy flake.

  • Fluorescents – Wild pop under daylight; electric under blacklight. Best over white, and not very lightfast outdoors (protect accordingly).

Tips

  • Reduce ~10–30% with 4011/4021 (or per feel).

  • Let coats flash (lose the “wet shine”) before the next pass.

  • For t-shirts and fabrics, pre-base with 5601 Transparent Base and heat set.

2) Wicked Colors (automotive-leaning, high durability)

If you’re coming from solvent-based coatings, Wicked will feel familiar. Excellent on plastics, metals, helmets, bikes, RC bodies, scale models, figures, and hard-use props.

  • Wicked Standard – Broad color range for basecoats and effects.

  • Wicked Detail – Finer grind for lower PSI and smaller nozzles.

  • Wicked Opaque (Acrylic-Urethane) – Built-in toughness and thicker film for fast coverage with fewer runs; sprays beautifully when reduced.

  • Wicked Fluorescent Colors - Similar to Airbrush Colors, but in a hard-surface-friendly formula. Wild pop under daylight; electric under blacklight. Best over white, and not very lightfast outdoors (protect accordingly).

  • Special FX & Sparkle (Wicked Line)

    • Flares (color-shift) – Two to three-tone flip depending on angle. Best over dark bases.

    • Highlights – Subtle, ultra-fine optical pearl veil; base color strongly influences the look.

    • Cosmic Sparkle – Fine, bright metallic sparkle; stronger than Highlights.

    • Hot Rod Sparkle – Heavy flake vibe in a water-based workflow—think “mini flake job.” Use larger nozzles and good extraction.

    • Quick Silver / Gold Chrome (Wicked Chromes) – Extremely thin metallics for a chrome-like sheen, must be applied over gloss black only (satin/matte kills the effect).

    • UV-Reactive & Glow – UV brighteners “pop” under blacklight; Glow charges under light and emits in the dark. For the best punch, apply over white, then protect.

Good to know

  • Much of the retired Auto Air Colors palette migrated into Wicked equivalents (look for “W” numbers).

  • Pair with Autoborne Sealer (colored or transparent) for prime/adhesion on hard, non-porous substrates.

3) Illustration Colors (micro-detail & controlled build)

Formulated for low PSI and tiny needle sizes. Fantastic for photorealism, textures, hair/fur, portraits, pin-ups, and mixed-media fine art.

  • Extended working time for scratching, erasing, and subtle blends (fully cures after the open window).

  • Huge value range from one bottle: mist light values, build to full chroma with passes.

  • Tim Gore’s sets: Lifeline (natural skin tones) and Bloodline (trauma tones) are staples for character work, props, and creature finishes.

4) Candy/Kandy (a.k.a. candy2O)

A translucent dye color that lives for depth over metallics.

  • Mix candy dye with 4050 UVLS Gloss or 4030 (binder/clear) and reduce to taste.

  • Base matters most: Over silver gives that classic candy look; over gold shifts warmer (e.g., blood red → “apple red” over gold).

  • Build with multiple light coats to control hue and depth.

  • Use 4040 Bleed Checker as an intercoat when layering white or other opaques near candies to prevent dye bleed.

Primers, Binders, Clears & “Why your base matters”

  • Autoborne Sealers (especially 6000 Transparent Sealer) – Bite and uniform ground on hard substrates (metal, composites, wood). Colored sealers save color coats. Transparent sealer maximizes adhesion when you don’t want pigment in the base (e.g., over chrome).

  • 4050 UVLS (Matte / Satin / Gloss / High Gloss) – Multi-tool: intercoat clear, candy binder, transparent base, or final sheen on indoor pieces. Durable for water-based, but for automotive exterior longevity, top with a 2K urethane clear.

  • 4040 Bleed Checker – Intercoat designed to lock down candy dyes and keep reds from pinking your whites. Also useful between complex multi-color masks.

  • 5601 Transparent Base – Fabric hero: pre-base tees, canvas shoes, etc., so color sits up instead of soaking in; heat set after.

  • 4004 Transparent Base – General mixing/extend body on hard surfaces when you don’t want more pigment.

  • 4030 Balancing Clear – Mixing additive that toughens films (acrylic-urethane character) and improves mar-resistance.

  • 5092 Flex Additive – Boosts flexibility for latex masks and bendy props.

Cleaning & Rescue

  • Airbrush Cleaner for routine flushing; Restorer for baked-on clogs (soak parts, not seals you can’t replace).

Reducers (pick by feel, climate, and effect)

  • 4011 – The go-to general reducer for most Createx lines.

  • 4021 – Slower-evaporating; helps reduce tip-dry and smooths flow in hot/dry conditions.

  • 4013 – Used when humidity is very high (as discussed by many instructors); alcohol-leaning behavior helps flashing in damp climates.

  • 4020 – Fast, “hotter” automotive reducer (acetone-type content). Speeds evaporation; use thoughtfully and ventilate well.

Practical rule: start with 4011 at ~10–30% and adjust. If you’re battling tip-dry, try 4021. In extreme humidity, 4013 earns its keep. For specialty automotive workflows or very fast flash, 4020 is the hammer.

Proven Habits That Make Createx Paint Flow Like a Dream

  1. Reduce, then wait 5–10 minutes. Let the reducer “marry” the paint to avoid shock that can leave nibs/texture.

  2. Flash between coats. If it still looks wet and glossy, give it air (blow across the surface) and patience. Room temperature air, not heat! Heat quickly dries the surface and locks in water/reducers under it. 

  3. Mind the nozzle size.

    • Airbrush Colors & heavier effects: ≥0.5 mm (0.8 mm for big flake, great with NO-NAME Minigun).

    • Illustration & Wicked Detail: tiny nozzles are fine. 0.18mm, like in Iwata Micron or GSI Creos PS-771, is a great airbrush choice for these. 

  4. Base color affects final color. Especially with candy2o and effects, the ground determines the look.

  5. Intercoat wisely. Use 4040 (and/or 4050) between candies and opaques to keep colors clean and edges crisp.

  6. For fabric: pre-base with 5601, then heat set fully (follow Createx TDS).

  7. Outdoors: protect fluorescents, candies, and effects with a durable clear; for long-term exterior, finish with a 2K urethane clear like American Icon or Custom Creative clears.

Quick “Shopping Cart” Recipes

  • Candy Red Wheel Center (deep apple look):
    Autoborne Gold Sealer → fine silver/gold metallic if desired → Candy Red (dye + 4050, reduced) in light passes → 4040 intercoat → 2K clear.

  • Photoreal portrait on illustration board:
    Illustration Colors (Lifeline for skin) reduced with 4011/4021 → scratch/erase details within open window → 4050 Matte or Satin as final sheen.

  • Chrome-ish emblem pop:
    Gloss Black base (perfect gloss) → Quick Silver Chrome misted lightly → optional Candy veil → 2K clear.

  • Glow sign for indoor blacklight corner:
    White base → Fluorescents and UV Reactives where needed → protect with 4050 Gloss; keep out of direct sun for longevity.

What Happened to Auto Air Colors?

They’re discontinued; most favorites live on inside Wicked Colors. If you have an old Auto Air shade you loved, look up its W equivalent—or ask a retailer to cross-reference it for you.

Final Word

Createx is a system—colors, binders, reducers, sealers—that lets you build exactly the surface, glow, depth, and durability you need. Start with the right line for your surface, respect flash times, and let your base do half the work. After a project or two, the wall of bottles won’t feel overwhelming—it’ll feel like a palette.

Try using our trained AI-helper "Ask ATOM". If you tell it your surface (metal, plastic, fabric), nozzle size, and finish goal (matte/gloss, candy depth, flake level), it will give you a step-by-step recipe with exact mix ratios and PSI to get repeatable results.

Introduction – Getting to Know Your Airbrush