Complete Guide to Getting Started in Miniature Painting

Essential Tools and Materials to Get Started in Miniature Painting

Before diving into the world of miniature painting, you need more than enthusiasm and miniature paints—you need the right tools. Think of them as the foundation of any project, since they determine precision, safety, and above all, the quality of the result. Some are essential for getting started, while others, although optional, will make your work easier, faster, and cleaner. Let’s dive into the basic tools and the ones that’ll become your best allies.

Cutting and Preparation Tools

The first stage in mini painting is not applying miniature paint but preparing the pieces. At this stage, your best allies will be cutters, hobby knives, and files. If you invest in quality tools from the beginning, you will not only save time but also avoid irreversible damage to your miniatures.

Nippers or Cutters

Nippers are the main and essential tool to separate pieces from the “runners” (also known as sprues or injection frames). There are two main types:

• Single-blade cutters: This type of cutter has a sharp blade that cuts against a completely flat side, resulting in an extremely clean cut with almost no marks. They are ideal for cutting the thin joints connecting the part to the sprue and for delicate pieces with a lot of surface detail. They are more precise, however, they’re delicate, and aren’t recommended for cutting very thick pieces because they could be damaged.
• Double-blade cutters: In this type of cutter, both blades cut simultaneously, leaving a small nub but offering more strength and allowing you to cut larger pieces or harder plastics. They are more affordable and versatile for general work.

At SprayGunner, you’ll find options from brands such as AMMO by MIG, VOLKS USA INC, and THE ARMY PAINTER, all recognized for their durability and precision. THE ARMY PAINTER offers two types of nippers, one suitable for cutting thinner sprues and one for thicker sprues. We also have a starter kit prepared by AMMO by MIG, which includes not only this type of cutter but also several other essential products to get you started in model building.

Hobby Knives

Although nippers are the first step, hobby knives are essential for removing flash, opening holes, trimming edges, or even cutting very fragile parts. There are multiple shapes and sizes, but the most common are:

• Straight blade (No. 11): Ideal for clean, precise cuts on flat surfaces.
• Curved blade: Perfect for working on rounded surfaces or for controlled cuts in curved areas.
• Hook blade: Excellent for scraping mold lines or working in recessed areas.
• Wide blade: Useful for long, straight cuts in thin materials such as plastic sheets or masking.
• Chisel blade: Perfect for removing material in thin layers or for scratch building.

Files and Sandpaper

A good surface finish and perfect joints between parts are important before applying any miniature paint or model paint. To achieve the perfect fit and surface finish that our minis require before painting, files and sandpapers are necessary:

• Sandpaper (for wet sanding): Useful for smoothing cuts without leaving visible scratches.
• Sanding sponges: Adapt very well to curved surfaces and are perfect for hard-to-reach areas. They’re also suitable for preparing surfaces, which improves the final finish.
• Metal or diamond files: Suitable for modelers working with resin or harder plastic parts.
• Sanding sticks: Allow you to work straight edges and flat surfaces with very good control.

Hobby Mats / Cutting Mats

Hobby mats, or cutting mats, protect your work surface and extend the life of your blades. Self-healing mats are the most recommended, since the cuts “close” themselves and do not interfere with later work. In addition, the printed guides help cut parts or masking precisely. Moreover, they help protect your workspace. Let’s be honest, accidents happen to the best of us, and glue, paint, thinners, and other materials can damage your furniture. Having a hobby mat to work on can save you hundreds of dollars and major headaches later.

Additional Recommended Tools

In addition to the essential tools you need, there are tools that can make your work easier as you progress in the hobby. While not all of them are necessary for a complete beginner, we present them here so you can know the full range of options that may be useful as you advance:

• Precision tweezers: Essential for placing decals, handling small parts, or working with photo-etched pieces without bending them or leaving fingerprints.
• LED lighting and magnifiers: An LED lamp with an articulated arm or an illuminated magnifier improves visibility and reduces eye strain, especially during long detail sessions.
• Organizers: Trays with compartments to sort parts, tools, or your paints.
• Photo-etch accessories: If you work with kits that include metal parts, having bending tools, specialized cutters, and similar equipment is very helpful.
• Scratch building tools: In modeling, sometimes you want to improve a piece or create something from scratch using leftover pieces from other kits or plasticard. For this, you’ll need tools such as metal rulers, fine saws, awls, and precision drill bits.

Understanding the Miniatures

Before you start painting, it’s worth understanding the type of kit you’ll be working with. Assembling a Warhammer kit is not the same as assembling a Gundam, and knowing these differences from the start will save you frustration and help you choose the ideal project for your first experiences. While both worlds share a passion for detail and customization, each has its own materials, assembly systems, and challenges that will affect how you prepare and paint them.

Materials and Types of Kits

Generally, miniatures are made from three main materials:

• Plastic: Lightweight, easy to cut and sand, ideal for beginners.
• Resin: More detailed but also more fragile; requires more delicate sanding and pre-cleaning to remove mold release agents.
• Metal: Heavier and more resistant, but harder to cut and file; mostly used for classic or special edition models.

Most Warhammer miniatures require glue to assemble the pieces, usually plastic cement for plastic parts or cyanoacrylate for resin and metal.

Gundam kits are almost always made from high-quality plastic and use a snap-fit system (pieces fit together without glue). This makes assembly easier and allows you to disassemble parts for repainting or modification. The runners (frames of parts) are organized by color and model section, which speeds up construction.

In terms of scale, Warhammer usually works at 28–32 mm, while Gundam offers a wide variety (1/144, 1/100, and 1/60 scale), each with a different level of detail and number of pieces.

Characteristics and Challenges

In Warhammer, the biggest challenge is in preparation: removing mold lines, filling gaps with putty, and ensuring that joints are invisible before applying paint. The large number of small details and complex textures requires patience and precision.

In Gundam, the initial assembly is quick thanks to the snap-fit system, but the challenge lies in the finish. The goal here is often to achieve the most perfect and realistic look possible, which means sanding nub marks, enhancing the look with panel lining, and applying painting and shading techniques for more realism. While you can leave a Gundam “out of the box” without painting, many modelers enjoy customizing them for a unique touch.

Preparation and Assembly

In Miniature Painting, good preparation of the pieces is the foundation for a flawless finish. Whether you’re working on a Warhammer or Gundam kit, the time you spend preparing parts before painting will show in the final quality. Cleaning, cutting, and assembling each piece carefully will not only prevent problems during painting but will also make the process more enjoyable. Think of this as “building the canvas” on which you’ll bring your miniature to life.

Initial Cleaning

Before starting any assembly, it’s important to remove grease and mold release residues from the parts. Do this by gently washing them in warm water with mild dish soap and using a soft toothbrush to reach difficult areas. Don’t use too much pressure; the goal is to leave the surface free of anything that could prevent the miniature paint from adhering. Once washed, place the parts on a clean towel and let them dry completely before handling or cutting them.

Cutting and Cleaning Flash

Cutting the parts from the sprue is key to maintaining the integrity of the miniature. It’s best to cut leaving a small margin between the part and the connection point to avoid “stress marks” (white tension marks). Then, with a sharp hobby knife or a fine file, you can remove the excess more precisely. For a perfect finish, start sanding with coarse-grit sandpaper to quickly remove material, and finish with fine-grit sandpaper to avoid damaging the piece. You can also use sanding sticks or sponges. This step not only improves aesthetics but also makes assembly easier by ensuring clean, tight joints.

Assembly

In Warhammer, most miniatures are assembled with plastic cement, which slightly melts the material to create a solid bond. A highly regarded product is Extra Thin Cement from AMMO by MIG, which allows precise application in joints.

For resin or metal parts, or for joints that need quick fixing, cyanoacrylate glue (CA glue) is used, sometimes with activators to speed up curing.

Working with Gunpla, assembly usually starts with a dry fit, placing the pieces without glue to ensure proper fit. This is especially useful if you plan to paint parts separately before joining them.

When gaps or imperfections appear, modeling putties (gap fillers) are the solution. At SprayGunner, you’ll find options like Putty Surfacer, classic putties, acrylic putties, and epoxy putties—all ideal for filling small indentations before sanding and painting.

Priming – The Base of a Good Paint Job

When painting mini’s, especially Warhammer figures, priming is the first real step toward achieving your model’s final look. Primers act as an anchoring layer that allows paint to adhere more evenly and last longer. Without a good primer, paint may chip, slide off, or lose vibrancy over time—especially on pieces that are handled frequently. Whether you aim for a display-quality finish or a gaming-ready model, you must choose and apply primer correctly, as it makes a huge difference in the final result.

Types of Primers

There are two main ways to apply primer: spray and liquid for airbrush or brush.

• Spray can primer is quick to apply and covers large surfaces evenly, ideal for those who want to save time without technical complications. Brands like THE ARMY PAINTER, AMMO by MIG or Monument Hobbies produce excellent aerosol primers popular with both Warhammer and Gundam modelers. The downside is less control over application, and in humid or cold climates, it can result in unwanted grainy texture.
• Liquid primer, commonly applied with an airbrush, offers complete control over thickness and coverage. This allows you to prime already assembled models or small components separately without obscuring fine details. The airbrush also makes it easier to use less common primer colors. At SprayGunner, you’ll find options like Badger’s STYNYLREZ line, AMMO by MIG’s A-STAND and One Shot primers, Monument Hobbies’ Pro Acryl PRIME, Liquid Kicks Primer Coat, THE ARMY PAINTER’s AIR primer, and Mission Models Paints primers.

As for color choice: white is best if you plan to apply bright colors over it; black enhances shadows; and gray is a versatile neutral option. There are also primers in specific colors (for example, blue for Space Marines or red for Khorne armies) that can save painting steps.

Common Mistakes

One of the most common mistakes is applying primer too thickly. This can obscure fine details and make it harder for paint to adhere properly. The best approach is to apply several thin coats, letting each dry before the next.

Another frequent mistake is not covering all areas, especially less visible or hidden spots during assembly. While it might seem unnecessary, complete coverage prevents adhesion and wear issues over time, ensuring your mini looks flawless from every angle.

Model Paints and Finishes

In miniature painting, paints are the essence that brings your project to life. Choosing the right paint determines not only the final look but also how easily you can work with each layer, gradient, or detail. There is no single “perfect” paint for all situations—each type has its strengths and is ideal for certain techniques or styles.

Types of Paints

• Acrylic paints tend to be the most popular in model paint. They dilute with water or brand-specific thinners, dry quickly, and are easy to clean—perfect for both beginners and pros. They work well with brushes and airbrushes, allowing thin layers, glazes, or solid coverage. Recommended brands include AMMO by MIG Jimenez (Ionic and Atom lines), Chroma Air, ProAcryl, Army Painter, and SprayGunner’s NO-NAME Paints.
• Enamel paints have a longer drying time, making them ideal for washes, filters, and weathering effects with more control. They are durable and useful for detail work but require specific thinners and solvent cleaning.
• Lacquer paints stand out for their toughness and adhesion, often used in automotive, aircraft, and high-demand mecha modeling. They dry fast and produce extremely smooth finishes but require good ventilation and stronger thinners.

Opacity varies. Opaque paints fully cover and are great for base coats and solid colors; semi-transparent paints allow subtle blends and transitions; transparent paints tint without covering, ideal for glass, lighting effects, or gems.

Color Selection and Recommended Sets

For those just starting out in mini painting, the most practical option is to buy basic sets with a balanced range of primary, secondary, metallic, and shading tones. Brands like Ammo by Mig Jimenez and Army Painter offer starter kits for Warhammer and other wargames, while ProAcryl is highly valued for its pigmentation and ease of use.

Special paints, such as metallics for realistic weapons and armor, or fluorescent and pearlescent paints for striking energy effects and decorations, allow you to further personalize your project.

Brush vs. Airbrush

In Miniature Painting, beginners often wonder whether to paint with brushes or invest in an airbrush. The truth is, both have advantages and are best used together. Brushes offer complete control for details, while an airbrush covers large surfaces and creates smooth transitions faster.

• Brush painting is the foundation. Even airbrush users rely on brushes for highlights, details, and effects. Synthetic brushes are cheaper and more durable, ideal for beginners or techniques that wear bristles (like dry brushing). Natural hair brushes, especially Kolinsky sable, offer finer tips, better paint load, and more control, but require more care, like the use of specialized brush soaps, and tend to be pricier.
• Airbrushing opens new possibilities: even base coats, perfect gradients, pre-shading, and lighting effects quickly and consistently. For beginners, there is a learning curve, but the reduced brush marks, better color blending, and time savings on large models make it worthwhile. For most model paint work, 15–25 PSI and 0.2–0.4 mm nozzles are ideal. At SprayGunner, you’ll find quality airbrushes from GSI Creos, Iwata, Harder & Steenbeck, and versatile NO-NAME kits for starting without overspending.

Masking and Details

Mastering masking is key to moving from a good to a professional finish in mini painting. Masking not only protects areas you don’t want to paint but also lets you create complex patterns and clean transitions.

The most common tool is masking tape (low tack for safe removal). For irregular shapes, masking putty is flexible, reusable, and great for organic forms like helmets or shields. Stencils let you create repetitive patterns, camouflage, or textures (such as reptile skin, metal panels, or controlled weathering effects) with model paint.

Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

Frequent beginner mistakes include:

• Applying paint too thickly, which can obscure fine details. Always dilute your mini paint slightly with water or the correct thinner and test before applying.
• Not cleaning tools properly. Dirty brushes lose shape and clogged airbrushes can ruin hours of work. Clean them after each session with the correct cleaner.
• Testing new techniques directly on your final miniature. Always practice on spare parts or old models first. To test paint mixtures, a common option is to test the back of plastic spoons. This allows you to see how the paint reflects on a curved surface in different lighting to make sure it’s the effect and finish you want to achieve.

Avoiding these mistakes not only improves your results but also builds confidence to explore and enjoy the hobby.

Conclusion

Painting miniatures is a creative journey full of discoveries. From prepping the parts to applying the last touch of paint, each step adds up to a result you can be proud of. No matter what type of model you want to build, the important thing is to start and enjoy the process. Don’t fear mistakes—they’re part of learning. With the right tools, some practice, and plenty of imagination, your projects will keep getting better and better.